Tasty but lacking textural variety and visual appeal - Central Barranco - Buy Reservations
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😒 3/5 - Tasty but lacking textural variety and visual appeal
By 👻 @Francois B, 02/02/2024 3:00 am
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The food experience fell short of my expectations, which were admittedly fairly high as should be expected for a restaurant consecrated No. 1 in the World in last year’s San Pellegrino/Acqua Panna Top 50 List. I needed a few days to analyze why my experience at Central left me discombobulated. I had the Mundo Mater tasting menu which was said to provide a synthesis of the research and interpretation work of the Central team and this menu was specifically recommended for those visiting Central for the first time. The menu invites you to explore native ingredients found at 14 different altitudes throughout Peru, ranging from 10 metres below sea level to 4,200 metres above sea level, with each dish representing a particular eco-system. PROS: Remarkable use of indigenous ingredients by a chef who is true to his stated vision. Tasted food items I would not anywhere else. Despite one or two epic fails, dishes were tasty and flavourful (if you set aside the Cons) CONS: It is not normal that a 14-course tasting menu would only require the use of spoons. Repetitive use of soft custardy textures in dish after dish becomes boring and after a while, detracts from the taste. The second problem is a direct consequence of the first. It is a truism that “we eat first with our eyes”. At Central, the food vehicle of choice is a variety of nice ceramic bowls to hold all the custardy and soft preparations. When dishes are served in a bowl, you can only appreciate one dimension, the surface of the dish. In the menu I was served at Central, there was little to be eaten with the eyes. Most dishes were lacking the visual appeal of memorable dishes. Interestingly, when researching dishes that were served at Central in the past, there seemed to be many examples of dishes that are very different from what I was served. When all is said and done, am I glad to have had this opportunity to eat at Central? Yes. Do I agree this in the No. 1 restaurant in the world? No, at least not based on the menu I was served. Would I go back to Central? Maybe, if provided some indication of a change in the menu direction (not in the ingredients but in preparation and presentation).
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