I'm not sure even the hype does Dept of Culture justice. - Dept. of Culture Brooklyn - Buy Reservations
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😍 5/5 - I'm not sure even the hype does Dept of Culture justice.
By 👻 @Molly T., 07/11/2022 3:00 am
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It's a magical experience, one that is so much more than just a meal. There is absolutely no pretense here: it's as genuine as it gets. Before dining here, I wondered what it was exactly that had me quaking in my boots with such excitement. Finally, I've put my finger on it. A night at Dept of Culture is as close as it gets to my NYC dining fantasy. There are thousands and thousands of businesses in this city. Many of us live here because we love how readily available just about anything can be if you put your mind to it. But with this kind of economy, we run the risk of treating just about everything as transactional. I started writing on Yelp 6+ years ago because it gave me a platform to document my exploration of the city I call home -- including all of the interactions with the tireless humans who make this city as incredible as it is. Despite being in the densest city in the world, we can be so isolated from one another. At Dept of Culture, connection is central. Narrative, culture, memory, history -- it's all on display in a beautifully authentic way, thanks to owner/Chef Ayo Balogun and his vision. At Dept of Culture, every meal is one shared among friends and every dish has a story that you'll remember just as well as the food itself. I promise I'll get to the food. Just need to do a bit of scene-setting first.We came for the 8:30 seating and were lucky enough to sit at the large communal table (the only table in the space -- there are four chef's counter seats as well). It's BYO (we brought a few bottles of wine to share with others -- only a few took us up on it as most other parties did the same), though they do offer complimentary Chenin Blanc (which is very very good, by the way) if you opt not to bring anything. If you do bring extra bottles of white or rosé they'll be happy to chill it for you in the fridge. As others have mentioned, the space is pretty minimalist. Ayo has some personal artwork/photos on the walls and there's a record player playing some fun beats (except when Ayo is presenting each dish). At the end of the meal, Ayo emphasized how important sustainability and lack of waste are to him, so he wanted to mindful of -- when it is time for him to move on from that physical location -- the process of breaking down the space and transitioning it to something new. Okay, now onto the food. I had read plenty about the restaurant prior to dining here, so I knew we were in for some legitimate spice. My fiancé is spice averse, but luckily we had about a month in between booking our reservation and the night of our meal, so we had ample time for preparation (more mental than anything else, but emergency Tums were also on hand). The first test was the now famous fish pepper soup (served with red snapper), which is made with one of the world's hottest peppers. Curiously, the punch of the spice fades rapidly, so it hurts for a moment and then suddenly not at all (we've watched a lot of Hot Ones so we know that folks are often not this lucky). And beyond conquering the pepper, the soup itself was delightful. The next dish was perhaps the star of the night for many, wara (a very specific type of cheese that is only well-known in Kwara). Ayo gets the milk for this cheese from Connecticut and makes it himself, serving it in some really delicious and warming tomato sauce. The texture is unlike anything you've had (paneer is the closest comparison I can think of) in the best possible way.Moving on, we had a pounded yam fish stew, which Ayo described as his version of mac and cheese. Total comfort food. Honestly, the texture was off-putting for me, but the flavors were great. And overall it was just fun to experience a dish I had never tried before, something so personal and meaningful for our chef. Finally, the heavenly maple syrup-roasted plantain with ice cream. Can't get better than that. Ayo recommends to eat it quickly, as it will "quickly turn into a milkshake". As I had hoped for, we had some great conversation with our table companions -- people we never would have met if we hadn't both coincidentally booked this particular night at Dept of Culture. I'm so happy that this place exists, and I hope it paves the way for more like to come onto the scene.
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