Good but at those prices - it should be. - Fabios Wien - Buy Reservations
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🙂 4/5 - Good but at those prices - it should be.
By 👻 @John S, 04/17/2024 3:00 am
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We learned of Fabios from our Austrian food guide (it had a commendably high score). The one caveat that must be stressed before I say any more, is that Fabios is a very “serious” restaurant. If you are looking for a slice of pizza or think you can bully the Maitre d’ then you will be very disappointed/upset. At Fabios the customer isn’t always king. You can try to book online…but you can’t. You can request that your booking application is considered but you need to receive confirmation before being certain. This is made quite clear. The other thing that is made quite clear, is that you will be seated where you are told you are sitting - not where you wish to be seated. This is also made crystal clear in the booking. The last thing that may cause you concern is the cost. Fabios isn’t exactly a bargain but then again - is any five star restaurant in any big city? Now on to our experience. We were seated indoors but next to a window, which for us was absolutely perfect. You could watch the world go by without the pitfalls of an outdoor table. The interior decor is classic modern Italian. You could be mistaken for being in Milan. Seating is well spaced and the furniture extremely comfortable. Service is polite, efficient and correct. In my humble opinion however, some of the food did not live up to its lofty price. The breads supplied were superb, with a good selection of well made products. Of our two starters my wife’s Fried Squid with Amalif Lime Dip was the best we have ever tasted. If your experience of squid has been chewy, borderline inedible, rubbish - this was an absolute triumph! The batter was light and crisp, the squid extremely tender and complemented perfectly by the light, slightly acidic but tasty dip. My braised baby octopus was OK but really quite bland. I haven’t eaten “moscardini” served in this way before and in my opinion, it didn’t do the octopus any favours. It was also under-seasoned. Things looked up with my main of beef, cooked and served to perfection, as were the accompanying rosemary potatoes. While my baby octopus was under-seasoned, my wife’s Ossobuco Milanese was, if anything, very over-seasoned. This was a shame as it was a very fine example of the dish, with the meat (as it should be) falling away from the bone. The best part (the marrow) delivered a delicious, creamy “hit”. The polenta served with it was a change from the usual saffron risotto but did compliment the dish well. Desserts were excellent, with my wife’s Millefoglie with creme patisserie, mini profiteroles and marinated figs being simply spectacular. My Tiramisu was more traditional and delivered with a bit of a flourish, the creamy aspect of this classic dessert pouring down the sides of the Savoiardi sponge, after the serving “ring” was removed. Absolutely no complaints about the desserts. From the wine list (with mark-ups reminiscent of my home city of London) a reasonable Primitivo was chosen, with the better bottle (from the producer Es) breaching the €200 mark which is (IMHO) way too much. The preprandial cocktail drinks (a classic Negroni for me, an excellent Prosecco for my wife) were a little over the expected price but very good nevertheless. I said service was excellent (and it was) but I would change one aspect - put my wine within reach. I am quite capable of pouring my own wine. I know that some do like to have their glasses “recharged” but not me. In conclusion, I would recommend Fabios, if you know what you are letting yourself in for. I was quite surprised when the bill arrived, as it was less than I anticipated. This was more to do with me “reining in” my wine expectations (after seeing the list) than the cost of the food. The faults (if they can be called that) were minor and were almost entirely down to seasoning. You can add salt - you cannot take it away. Nevertheless, if you’re looking for a very special place, serving special food - you could do far worse than book a table at Fabios.
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