Really good but not great - Kong Hans Kælder København - Buy Reservations
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🙂 4/5 - Really good but not great
By 👻 @Fredrick R, 05/19/2022 3:00 am
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What to expect? Stellar service according to a well orchestrated schema. Impressive food and beautiful servings. A well selected accompanying wine selection. Outrageous prices for a meal? Well, you get all that. The rewards both the guest and the restaurant get for a two star rating. The food was really good but never great. Often it was the simplest courses that stood out the most, like boiled potatoes in beurre blanc or quail ravioli with morels and rich broth. The one or two swallows that keep appearing are paired with bread. The staff keep filling the table with mini baguettes and brioche. It is evident that someone who actually expects to get their fill need to grab in. There were a few brutal misses, at least to my palate, most notably the overly rich reduction that drenched the Beef Wellington, making the dish soggy. It was so rich on carnation and I suspect lavender or some such that most of the rest got lost. The duxelles is probably kept together with some binding substance and kept on a roll. A beautiful serving ruined. The dessert trolley was a feast for the eyes and richly composed. It almost made me wish that we were there for afternoon tea instead of a multi course dinner. Kong Hans Kaelder is situated in, well, a cellar. Unfortunately it makes for a very noisy environment as the restaurant fills up. Good, not great and overly priced. At least for a Swedish wallet.
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