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Modern Filipino Food that would benefit from better service
Derived from the Tagalog word for “older brother” combined with Chef Lord Maynard Llera's name Kuya Lord offers regional Filipino dishes rethought through classical technique on Melrose at the corner of Western Avenue. Begun as a pop-up out of the Chef’s home during November of 2020, pandemic restrictions still in full effect for most of California, three intervening years find Kuya Lord firmly situated on several “best of” lists despite just 21 seats. Considered "quick casual," a concise menu and online ordering seeing the staff of four in non-stop motion even as guests are responsible for bussing their own tables, prices range roughly $20-30 per person for hearty portions of everything from roast Meats to Noodles. Filled shortly after opening with a crowd of varying ages and ethnicities, music overhead adding to the buzz, most plates arrive perhaps fifteen minutes after the bill is paid and every single one finds distinct balance thanks to the combination of fermentation, salt and sweetness. Beginning with “Filipino Ramen,” a steaming bowl of Pork Broth loaded with Pork Belly adjacent textural components and fried Garlic, Llera's Pancit utilizes thicker Noodles than usual with a lot of Umami added by Fish Cakes. Focused more on Pork than the famous Fish Collar, both Lechon with shattering Skin and chopped Lucenachon tender as one can find, sweet Tocino alongside Garlic Rice and Pickled Green Papaya is fragrant, filling and lightly perfumed by smoke. Not one to skip Dessert, both available in limited quantities daily, Calamansi Pie eats nearly identical to Key Lime with a subtle hint of Coconut while Filipino Peanut Brittle Spread adds depth to delicate Rice Flour Cake.
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