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😍 5/5 - The Unapologetic Foods hospitality group has been on an
By 👻 @Ritodhi C., 12/25/2023 3:00 am
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The Unapologetic Foods hospitality group has been on an absolute tear since 2018. Helmed by restauranteur Roni Mazumdar and chef Chintan Pandya, it specializes in hyper-regional Indian cuisine. Adda and Dhamaka (rustic pan-Indian), Semma (South Indian), and Rowdy Rooster (Indian fried chicken) all debuted to critical acclaim and netted a treasure trove of accolades including a Michelin Star for Semma and a "Best Chef New York" James Beard award for Pandya. Masalawala & Sons is their newest venture and highlights one of the best kept secrets in the food world: the dynamic cuisine of Kolkata, West Bengal. Both my parents hail from the city, so it was with a mixture of pride, nostalgia, and apprehension that I sat at the table. I hoped it would do the flavors justice. The space is small but lively, adorned with colorful streamers and wall art. Fair or not, I confess I found it strange that there were seemingly no members of the waitstaff of Indian heritage. This was particularly noticeable in the strained pronunciation of certain menu items, which no doubt affected the perceived authenticity of the experience. The service was otherwise decent enough. The three cocktails on the menu bore clever references to famous Bengali figures, but we found them rather run of the mill. My in-depth takes on the menu: Dahi Vada - known as "doi bora" in Kolkata, this is a spongy lentil dumpling soaked in a spiced yogurt. Here was a deceptively potent version of the beloved street snack that struck a wonderful balance between bitter and zesty cumin, refreshing mint, and sweet and sour dairy. Macher Dim - a stylized homage to a regional delicacy, the roe of the ilish (Hilsa) fish. While I am more used to consuming the eggs in a fried spherical form, here it is served as a sort of paste swimming in ghee (clarified butter) and mustard oil that you scoop up with a wooden spoon. I will be the first to say that this is an acquired taste. The roe is salty and funky and the mustard oil, which perfumes a number of Bengali dishes, is super pungent and tad bitter. I happen to love it, and the nostalgic flavor is well reproduced here. Biyebarir Fish Fry - "Biyebari" refers to a wedding reception, where fried bhetki (barramundi) is a fixture in Bengali tradition. This was an incredible version that captured the essence of the dish while elevating it. It almost borrows from fish and chips, in the sense that there were three distinct layers: super crunchy battered crust, followed by a steamy pocket of air, and then juicy well-seasoned fish. Amazing. The accompanying kasundi (mustard sauce) further bumped up the flavor. Bhetki Pathuri - fish caked in a paste of mustard, poppy seeds, and green chili and steamed in a banana leaf. Just incredible and as good as any I've tried. The flesh is moist beyond belief and the flavor is sharp, spicy, and sweet. Morog Boti - these neon red bone-in chicken bites are intense, rich, and spicy. The cool mint chutney is a necessary salve. Kosha Mangsho - a lovely take on the beloved and aromatic mutton (lamb/sheep) curry, oozing with ginger, garlic, and earthy spices. Not as good as my grandmother's, but can't hold that against them. Daab Chingri - this sweet and spicy coconut-based shrimp curry was heavy on aesthetics, coming piping hot in a hollowed coconut shell, but light on flavor. I found it to be flat and lacking in salt and complexity. Luchi - a deep-fried flat bread that is typically torn and used as a doughy vehicle for curries. Whether due to issues with construction or timing, the luchi came to our table deflated rather than in the characteristic puffed state, which was disappointing. My dinner at Masalawala & Sons was a memorable one, and I felt proud to share my regional heritage with my friends. The spirit of home cooking is there but with a more sophisticated touch and look. Indian Bengali cuisine has yet to really achieve a foothold outside of foodie meccas like New York, and I hope the success of this concept portends a future where that is not the case.
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