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🙂 4/5 - Georgia on my plate
By 👻 @JogNy, 06/12/2013 3:00 am
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The country of Georgia is not on the radar of most travelers. It borders the far south of Russia, Turkey, Armenia, Azerbaijan and the Black Sea. It’s pretty far out of the way, even for travelers already in Russia. Mtskheta, an ancient city about 20 kilometers from Tbilisi, the capital, is alongside the Caucasus Mountains, and while it isn’t exactly remote, it’s not easily reached. One of its most famous sites is a monastery, one of probably hundreds throughout the country, where brides and grooms come in by the busload on Sundays to get married in church. Many of the men wear traditional Georgian military garb, handsome black uniforms and boots. The site also holds restaurants, cafes and souvenir shops. A Sunday afternoon excursion is richly rewarded. The eponymous restaurant Mtskheta (pronounced mitt-SKATE-a), in Brooklyn’s Bath Beach, is perhaps just as inaccessible, located in a working-class neighborhood near Coney Island, underneath an elevated subway line, with little else to recommend the area. But like its namesake, the restaurant is worth going out of your way for. There are few Georgian restaurants in New York, and some that opened around the Russian and Ukrainian strongholds of Sheepshead Bay and Brighton Beach couldn’t make a go of it. Some Russian restaurants offer renditions of Georgian food, but it’s hard to find an eatery dedicated to it. That’s too bad, because it's sort of the haute cuisine of the region, lighter than some eastern European food but no less hearty, and it should be more popular and better known than it is. Among Mtskheta’s offerings: – Georgian salad consists of roughly chopped cucumber, tomatoes, a light vinaigrette and parsley. Nice way to start off the meal. – Eggplant with walnuts: The eggplant is smoky and charred. The walnut spread is lemony and flecked with fresh parsley. – Khachapuri: Georgian cheese bread. Basically a white pita with lots of cheese baked into it. There are many ways to make and season it; sometimes an egg yolk is added to the middle. – Kupati: Beef and pork sausages with onions and french fries. This dish is brought to the table on a sizzling, smoking skillet. The sausages are slightly spicy, a little sweet, with a smoky flavor. The raw onion slices continue to cook and brown on the searing skillet. – Khinkali are thick dumplings filled with lamb. You bite off the end, suck out the flavorful juice, then eat the whole thing. – Satsivi: A light, walnut-flavored chicken, as subtle as anything in French cuisine. – Kotleti: Cutlets, usually made with lamb, also with chicken or beef. – Wine: Georgia refers to itself as the birthplace of wine. (On our visit to Tbilisi, after passing through immigration, we were each handed a small sample bottle. What a lovely way to greet visitors.) Saperavi grapes produce an especially full-bodied wine. There are many other great dishes in this surprisingly sophisticated cuisine. So if you are in the neighborhood of Brighton Beach to visit the Russian community and are looking for a good place to eat, you might detour over to Mtskheta. Worth the trip.
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