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😍 5/5 - Well worth the visit
By 👻 @KnutMarius, 07/30/2021 3:00 am
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Delightful in every aspect. Fantastic service, pleasant ambience, and of course an impeccable meal. Set aside the entire evening, and don’t make any plans for the following morning.
Me and my partner went to Kontrast on a Thursday evening. We weren’t celebrating anything, but perhaps we should have; one is so well taken care of that a visit there feels like a reward or a gift.
From the very start one is met with professionalism and great service. We were greeted at the door by a smiling and welcoming head waitress which set the bar for the whole evening. The premises were sparsely decorated, but well-kept and most importantly - clean. Even though we sat in a relatively small room with approx. 15 tables, it didn’t feel crowded. The acoustics were spot-on, making the experience intimate as one is not disturbed by noise from the room. We had no problem conversing at a casual volume, which is remarkable considering the fact that the guests dine in the same room as the kitchen where the chefs are at full work. They even managed to place a little lounge area between the dining area and the entrance without it feeling stuffed or out of place. This restaurant is a case in point to the importance of architecture and interior design.
The food was, as expected, flawless. Everything from the combination of flavors to the presentation of the dishes to the construction of the menu to the variety of ingredients used was spot on. The attention to detail dedicated to the arrangement on the plate was immaculate, the work of true artists. The highlights of the evening were the strawberry dessert with sunflower seed butter (a match made in heaven with the salt and sweet), the kale and cauliflower dish (the kale was cooked to perfection) as well as the halibut with rucola sauce (the intense taste of chlorophyl from the sauce went like a charm with the fish).
There were some exciting surprises during the meal - duck breast cured in coffee (delicious), poached oyster covered in sour cream, and crab marinated in aquavit. For the most part, however, the combination of flavors was conventional - seafood and cucumber, strawberries and cream, veal and mushroom. Which is not to say that it is a bad thing. Their craftmanship is uncontested, but their experimentation with flavors and preparation techniques wasn’t cutting edge. The freeze-and-crumble technique that was used on the blue cheese, for example, was neat but it’s getting a bit old.
We ordered, as we always do, one juice pairing and one wine pairing. The juice pairing was a gift that kept on giving, with each new glass more delicious than the last. Many of the juices consisted of different varieties of tea, and I firmly believe that some had the potential of being sold as soft drinks in their own right. Anyone dining at Kontrast simply must try the juice pairing.
Some food for thought did enter my mind as we progressed through the meal. No menu was provided for the evening. During the presentation of each dish it was at times hard to catch everything of what was being said, as well as remember it afterwards. Without the menu, we weren’t able to go back or double-check the ingredients of each dish. As we discuss every aspect of these kinds of meals vigorously, we both would have appreciated information about the menu in writing in order to refer to it later.
I would have skipped one dish. We were completely stuffed by the end of the meal and one dish in particular seemed, in hindsight, unnecessary. It was a squid dish, consisting mainly of pasta. With the overweight of seafood in the meal, the squid dish being quite basic, and with the carbs taking up so much precious intestinal space, the meal would have been all the better for it.
The name of the restaurant also begs the question: what contrasts? Again, the food was immaculately prepared, but whatever contrasts found therein were customary. Salt in contrast to the sweet. Crunch in contrast to the creamy. Red in contrast to the green. I would have expected nothing more from a 1-star restaurant. Surely the name isn’t a play on such basic knowledge in cooking? So if not the food, then where?
The choice of wines at times was not optimal to my taste. The cheese dish, consisting of maple syrup, blue cheese and ice cream would have fared better with a sweet white wine rather than the port-like red wine we were served. And I also wasn’t too fond of the Jura red wine with the sweetbread – too dry and acidic.
The choice of music was also unorthodox – ‘90s and 2000’s alternative rock. So long as the volume is set right it was unproblematic, but it did occur to me that the rowdy music doesn’t necessarily compliment the fine dining we were undertaking.
But make no mistake – Kontrast is a fantastic place to go for a very nice meal. You will feel welcome, you will be well taken care of, and you will have the most wonderful meal. Be it friends, colleagues or couples, this place will cater to your every need and desire.
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