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🙂 4/5 - I guess this is a particularly useless place to write a
By 👻 @Wangston P., 10/16/2012 3:00 am
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I guess this is a particularly useless place to write a review of a French restaurant.Great value! Since I am the 99 percent, I care about getting my Euro's worth when buying a super-expensive tasting menu. I left very full and very stimulated by a lot of different flavors after wisely opting for the smaller 6-course menu. There were no major problems or disappointments - all negative feedback below are minor issues, maybe just my own personal preference.Service was great - professional but very kind attitude, descriptions of dishes were not too long or florid, not overbearing or over-attentive.The decor feels like the first class cabin of a futuristic airline. There are big armrests between the two-tops, wrap-around walls at the ends of the banquettes, and the upholstered walls are paneled in way that suggests a vehicle interior. The cutlerly looks like what Darth Vader would eat with, and the glass walls at the center of the restaurant give a view of an empty shaft, so maybe we're at the best restaurant on the death star. None of this is bad - it's comfortable and very cool. The bathroom is covered in pink scales - lot's of fun.The culinary philosophy is scientific gastronomy in the service of traditional flavors. There is no technique for the sake of technique, and also no inventions of bizarre new ideas that are confusing and weird.What worked:- The flavor of the fois gras terrine was so well developed, it was like a seamless combination of bacon and a sublime cheese. The onion sauce - just a small thin pipe of it - was surprisingly intense.- The beef was perfect. Maybe I'm a sucker for sous-vide beef. Portions (as for all the courses) were generous for a tasting menu.- The duck combined an overall French flavor palette with peanuts, which worked very well and was very surprising. I guess this could be considered Asian fusion (or African even) but it didn't play that way on the plate.- The pairing of passionfruit and lobster. Not so original, but really well done.- The beets, with a lot of balsamic vinegar flavor, that came with the turbot. They out-shone the fish.- The first course/amuse was the most inventive from a "modern" perspective. The last one, parsnip with pomegranate seeds and some micro-shiso and a sweet gel over a baton of cream was really interesting and tasty!What didn't work so well: - The smoked tea pasta with the fried oyster didn't have much to say.- The deep-fried soft-boiled egg was a little cold. At first we thought maybe just the inside was cold, because it didn't fry long enough to heat through, but in the end we decided the outside was cold too, and the fried filo dough bits had that cold deep fried flavor. Not unpleasant or rancid - it was a successful dish! - but hot would have been an improvement.- The accompaniment to the duck - a fig carpaccio with a gelee layer underneath and some braised spring onions on top - was a little bland or watery. It was very pretty, but could be improved with more intense flavor.- The milk-chocolate matcha truffle at the very end of the meal didn't work for me. I think matcha works best with dark chocolate, since it's also bitter. It can also work with milk-chocolate (as was the case here) and maybe in a milk or cream base. But in this case the center of the truffle was a butter caramel, which I don't think is a good pairing for matcha - it really fought the flavor so at the beginning there was no matcha flavor at all, and at the end just a bit clashing through. My partner disagrees with me and thinks the center was a ganache and not a caramel, and has less animosity towards it (but still didn't love it).Thanks for a wonderful dinner!
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