Tsuke Edomae has been in my list due to Michael Che's - Tsuke Edomae Austin - Buy Reservations
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😍 5/5 - Tsuke Edomae has been in my list due to Michael Che's
By 👻 @Alexander K., 01/23/2024 3:00 am
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Tsuke Edomae has been in my list due to Michael Che's affiliation with Chef Otto Phan from Kyoten. I've visited Kyoten 3 times and have thoroughly enjoyed my visits there with the unique omakase that Chef Otto offers to his guests. Additionally, Che has had additional training from Hiro Sato of Hakkoku. Due to sheer luck, given the difficulty to obtain reservations, a friend was able to give us seats for a Friday evening buyout. Our menu for the evening included the following: arugula salad, pregnant female squid, cooked iwashi, kinki with its broth, tempura of shirauo and eggplant, sawara with grated daikon, chutoro (hon maguro hailing from Choshi, Chiba prefecture), ika, aji, shirako, akami zuke, otoro aburi, negitoro temaki, kohada, buri, kuruma ebi, kinmedai, bafun uni, bafun uni handroll, anago, negitoro maki, tamago, miso soup, and finally a dessert of matcha ice cream with tamago crème brûlée. Che's main strength lies in his shari. Any serious sushi enthusiast knows that the shari is by far the most vital component of the nigiri. Although he was a bit coy with the type of akazu and mixture he uses, I strongly suspect that Yokoi Yohei is used to due to the distinctive dark color and pungent wafting smell of the foaming mixture as it was poured and mixed in the hangiri along with the steaming, freshly made rice. Che proudly proclaims that his rice is sourced from Mitori Koubou, hailing from the mountainous area of Kumomoto, Japan. Interestingly enough, Che doesn't utilize a traditional ohitsu to temporarily house the small batches of his shari rice, but instead a container with a non-porous lid. His shari features the holy trinity of my personal standard for excellent sushi rice: temperature control, akazu seasoning, and rice grain individuality. Each characteristic is as important as the other; a balance must be carefully orchestrated to make sure an optimal nigiri is formed. The disbursement of the grains is immediately noticeable as the pearls of rice begin to separate on your tongue as you chew each nigiri; the coating and saturation of the acidic sweetness from the akazu is simply divine. The key for myself personally is familiarity when tasting proper akazu shari; and Che's shari hits those marks to an absolute certainty. Regarding the otsumami, the kinki (shortspine thornyhead) with its own broth from the head and bones was the clear winner in my opinion. According to Che, he used simple flavorings of kombu and salt, with finely chopped chives added at the end to provide fresh, herbaceous notes. The temperature control for the otsumami was also omnipresent as well; a detail that Che seems to pay special attention to. The female squid had a pleasant texture with bite but no rubbery consistency that plagues these types of cooked seafood. The tempura was light and airy while still providing some substantive crisp; this was actually a pleasant surprise coming from a sushi specialist. The meal wasn't without its flaws however. Most notably, the courses that included nori weren't used with rice that had been previously cooled down. This warm rice causes the nori to be soggy and lose its crisp bite which is akin to an almost snapping sensation when done correctly. It wasn't as apparent in the negitoro temaki but very apparent in the uni handroll as the rice touched more surface area of the nori. In addition to this nori issue, there is a lack of aging in some of his neta, most notably the aji (horse mackerel) he served that night. The bite was a bit too firm which indicated that there was minimal to no aging time. This can be attributed to the enormous amount of time Che spends physically collecting his product from Houston and a palate sensibility that hasn't fully matured yet on his end. The arugula salad featured a very aggressive, voluminous acidic dressing which could have been dialed back in both aspects. Also regarding the searing process of the otoro, the smell emanating from it was quite strong and had a lingering chemical scent which wasn't pleasant at all. Having stated all that, given the price point and value proposition of this meal, I believe these small flaws can be overlooked when it comes to rating Tsuke Edomae due to the strengths of Che's shari, abilities, and his direct wild product sourcing straight from his specialist vendors in Japan. However, these are small adjustments that can be implemented without much additional hardship. Che's abilities can be put on par with those of the finest itamae in New York City in my opinion; albeit there needs to be some points of refinement in order for him to be declared truly elite. Austin is very lucky to have Chef Michael Che and the potential is there for him to flourish to pursue the impossibility of perfection in his craft. As he gains more experience, Che should become more self-aware of the subtleties of the product he is producing along with providing an ambiance unencumbered by any shortcomings.
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